Loved by Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn, Capri is still a sanctuary for the rich and famous with fancy restaurants and designer shops but for me it was all about the peaceful walks through nature and the glorious views – well, mainly.
The island is predominately car free which makes it a haven for walkers. There are a few main roads but the island is mainly a network of smaller ones only just big enough to accommodate an electric golf buggy, which ferry around supplies to businesses and the elderly to their homes. These roads take you to the most beautiful views, past some gorgeous houses and to some interesting historical places. And then there are the paths – just for pedestrians which take you through some even more gorgeous nature to some even more breathtaking views.
It is still easy to get around by bus – the routes are good and frequent but like a lot of those on the Amalfi coast it can seem like you are on the knight bus in Harry Potter – going at speed between spaces where you didn’t think you’d fit, when those not used to it instinctively breathe in and hope that it will help. Incidentally, if you are on one of the vertiginous routes (like the one between Capri and Anacapri) try to be on the inside and just stare at the cliff wall – looking over the precipitous edge is only something those with a strong stomach and locals should really try.
Day trippers (and there are so very, very many – even in April) usually arrive by ferry at Marina Grande and take a boat to the blue Grotto or the bus (or taxi if the bus queue is very long) to Capri center to look at the square and the shops and if they have time maybe a bus to Anacapri and a ride on the chairlift. All of which are worth a visit but for me Capri’s true joy was exploring the nooks and crannies and the edges of the island – finding a seascape and taking the time drink it all in, loosing myself in the uninterrupted vistas and feeling lucky, oh so very lucky to there.
Don’t get me wrong I was right to pack my tailored Capri pants and I did some window shopping at ludicrously expensive boutiques and I enjoyed some gorgeous meals which cost more than my flight to Italy but in our few days of staying there it was mainly about the nature, the walks and those panoramic views.